Guimarães: 9 Historic Sites in Portugal’s Cradle City

“Aqui nasceu Portugal” — You will see these three words proudly displayed on the ancient city walls once you arrive in Guimarães. In English, it means “This is where Portugal was born.” These words carry more than 1,000 years of history and the weight of the Portuguese national identity.

Wander around Guimarães to find a vibrant and beautifully well-preserved city where modern commodities co-exist with old monuments. Guimarães city center is the perfect location to admire some of the oldest buildings in Portugal (and Europe).

Long before the foundation of Portugal, the Guimarães area was home to Celtic tribes, the Suevi, the Visigoths, and the Romans. Yet, it is safe to say the events that led to the birth of a new nation occurred in the 8th century.

When the Moors crossed the Mediterranean Sea to Gibraltar in 711, they started their conquest of the Iberian Peninsula. Over the next 700 years, they fought against the Visigoths, occupying the regions of present-day Portugal and Spain.

However, there was one Northern kingdom the Moors never conquered: Asturias. The Cantabrian Mountains’ rugged landscape and harsh winters offered natural protection against the Moors and as a result, the surviving Christians rallied in the mountains and pushed the Moors further south.

Over the centuries, the Asturias Kingdom claimed new territories. As the kingdom grew, it became too large to manage. Eventually, it was divided into the smaller kingdoms of Pamplona, Aragon, Leon, and Castille, and the Condado Portucalense.

Vimaranis: The Capital of Condado Portucalense

In the 9th century, the newly formed Christian kingdoms in the Iberian Peninsula had only two goals: expel the Moors and secure the borders of the reconquered territories. In 868, King of Asturias Afonso III sent his vassal Vimara Peres to reconquer and defend the land south of Gallaecia, between the Minho and Douro Rivers. Once Vimara Peres fulfilled his mission, King Afonso III granted him the title of Count and the ownership of the Condado Portucalense territories.

Vimara Peres founded the small fortified town of Vimaranis, derived from his name. Over the years, via phonetic evolution, the word “Vimaranis” transformed into the present-day “Guimarães.” Under Peres’s rule, Vimaranis became a powerful city and the capital of Condado Portucalense.

On the other hand, the actual foundation of Guimarães is also often attributed to Countess Mumadona Dias, the widow of Count Hermenegildo Gonçalves, who governed the Condado between 926 and 943. Scholars consider Mumadona to have been the most powerful woman in the Iberian Peninsula in the 10th century.

Even though almost 60 years had passed since the foundation of the Condado, these were far from peaceful times. In Vimaranis, people constantly needed to defend their land. The Moors tried to reclaim their territory, forcing the border between the Condado Portucalense and the Caliphate to move back and forth. Meanwhile, the Vikings sailed along the coastline from Northern Europe and made their way toward Vimaranis.

Due to the constant raids and battles, Countess Mumadona Dias ordered the construction of a walled castle on top of a hill to protect the people of Vimaranis. To historians, this was more like a tower surrounded by a palisade wall rather than a fortified castle, but it served its purpose.

At the same time, Mumadona also ordered the construction of a double monastery at Vimaranis, which helped secure the population. Santa Maria Street (which you can visit today) connected the castle to the monastery.

In the 11th century, the Condado Portucalense pledged loyalty to King Afonso VI of Leon and Castille. As a result, the county enjoyed autonomy to manage its affairs but was still dependent on Afonso VI.

As a thank you, King Afonso VI wed his bastard daughter D. Teresa to Count D. Henrique and granted him the rule of Condado Portucalense. The newlyweds moved into the castle Countess Mumadona Dias had built and had a baby boy named Afonso Henriques, the future first Portuguese king.

Before he died in 1114, Count D. Henrique granted a charter to the town of Vimaranis, granting special privileges to its inhabitants. After his father’s death, D. Afonso Henriques took a series of political positions against his mother, D. Teresa, culminating in the Battle of S. Mamede on June 24, 1128, in which his host emerged victorious. From then on, he ruled the Condado Portucalense, where his authority was rarely challenged.

D. Afonso Henriques continued his father’s mission by conquering new territories further south. His success in battle led him to find new allies, strengthen his relationship with old ones throughout the county, and proclaim himself king. Eventually, in 1143, D. Afonso Henriques and King D. Afonso VII of Leon and Castille signed the Zamora Treaty, granting independence to the newly formed Kingdom of Portugal.

The Cradle City’s Legacy

Every Portuguese person knows how important Guimarães is to the country’s history. Yet, not everyone knows what you can find in this marvelous city. Besides the iconic landmarks, which were part of Portugal’s foundation, you can also admire how Guimarães evolved over the centuries. From a medieval settlement to the capital of the Portuguese Kingdom, in Guimarães, you will find stunning monuments from different eras.

These are the highlights you cannot miss!

Guimarães Castle is more than just a military building. It is a symbol of the Portuguese national identity. After all, this was where D. Afonso Henriques, Portugal’s first king, was born! The castle, as we see it today, is the result of several modifications throughout the centuries.

In 950, under the orders of Countess Mumadona Dias, the original castle was built among heavy granite boulders on top of a hill to take full advantage of the high viewpoint. However, there are few archeological remains of the ancient wooden palisade.

Some historians agree that Mumadona’s palisade walls were demolished to make way for a new castle with fortified stone walls, round in shape, with one or two entrances. In the 11th century, during the rule of Count D. Henrique, Guimarães Castle underwent a considerable renovation. During these works, builders used heavy stone to raise the first line of walls. And since this castle had no turrets or keep, it became a humble round courtyard surrounded by a stone wall.

In the 12th century, as the city became an important political and economic center, and with the foundation of the Portuguese Kingdom, the castle was again rebuilt and enlarged. The new wall used some parts of the older wall at the base. Also, the new castle ran along the walled perimeter of the current fortification, but still had no turrets or keep. Finally, a patrol way, or adarve, was added to the new wall, allowing troops to patrol and defend the castle. You can still admire the remains of the original adarve while visiting the castle.

Only between the 13th and the 14th centuries did Guimarães castle transform to look as it is now. During this period, eight turrets were built, there was a new keep, and the walls were raised.

Later, in the 15th century, two new structures were added: the Alcaide’s Palace and a barbican. The Alcaide’s Palace, built inside the castle, was a four-story building, with service and residential areas, and an adarve. The barbican, built outside the castle, flanked the wall facing São Mamede field. Although these structures no longer exist, archeologists have found traces of their foundations.

In the 17th century, the kingdom’s borders expanded away from Guimarães Castle. As a result, the castle lost its strategic importance. In the years that followed, locals used the castle stones to build other structures around the city, and the Alcaide’s Palace and the Barbican were demolished. Finally between 1692 and 1895, the castle even served as a prison.

In 1881, the castle was classified as a National Monument and it was restored between 1936 and 1937. Since 2001, it has become part of the Guimarães area that is classified as belonging to the “Cultural Heritage of Humanity.” It is often under maintenance to preserve its glory.

Located a few steps from Guimarães Castle, this small chapel is another city landmark. Some refer to it as the Igreja de São Miguel or the Igreja de Santa Maria. However, you can rest assured they both refer to the 12th-century Romanesque-styled chapel.

The chapel’s simplicity and humble dimensions will most likely catch your attention. Yet, what is fascinating is the symbolism behind the heavy stone walls. You see, this is where King D. Afonso Henriques was baptized and where the most noble warriors connected to the foundation of Portugal were buried. Inside, you will find a single nave and a few decorative embellishments.

3. Paços dos Duques de Bragança

While walking from the Castle and the São Miguel Chapel towards the city center, you will come across another national monument. Built in the 15th century by D. Afonso, the bastard son of King João I, Paços dos Duques de Bragança, it was inspired by D. Afonso’s travels throughout Europe. This palace presents the architectural features of a fortified house, with 39 chimneys and pitched roofs, exhibiting the influence of northern European manorial architecture. The result is a unique example of this style in the Iberian Peninsula.

In the 16th century, the palace was abandoned and, over the years, became a ruin of its past. Yet, in 1937, Paços dos Duques de Bragança gained a new life. Reconstruction works lasted for more than 20 years and transformed the palace into a museum.

Today, besides admiring the building’s incredible architecture, you will also find an impressive collection of artifacts. Among the most significant items are four copies of the Pastrana Tapestries from the 15th century, depicting the Portuguese maritime expansion in North Africa. The originals are now in Spain. The Real Fábrica de Tapices in Madrid made these copies and sold them to the Portuguese government in 1957.

You will also find Flemish tapestries, famous for their drapery and shadow play. Inside Paços dos Duques Museum is a collection of Portuguese furniture from the post-discovery period, from the Indo-Portuguese to the Hispano-Arab Mudéjar style. Other collections include porcelains from Companhia das Indias (the Portuguese East India Company), bladed weapons, firearms, and pieces of armor from the 15th to the 19th centuries.

This is the heart and soul of contemporary Guimarães. Locals and tourists fill the outdoor cafés and terraces, enjoying a drink while admiring the medieval ambiance of the surrounding buildings.

Largo da Oliveira was where Countess Mumadona chose to build a double monastery. Over the centuries, the small settlement of Vimaranis grew around the monastery, and Largo da Oliveira Square became one of the city’s most important sites. Its name comes from the olive tree planted here.

Once you arrive at Largo da Oliveira, you will find much more than the 10th-century monastery. The broken arches of Padrão do Salado and the old City Council building are some of the constructions that will draw your attention.

If you go under the Gothic arches of the old City Council building, you will find Praça de São Tiago square. It is a sister square to Largo da Oliveira, filled with restaurants, cafés, and traditional three-story stone houses.

5. Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Oliveira

This is one of the most iconic monuments in Guimarães. Located at Largo da Oliveira, the Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Oliveira is the historic double monastery that Countess Mumadona Dias built in 950.

The Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Oliveira was the first colegiada in Portugal. A colegiada, or collegiate church, is a group of dignities instituted in a parish church, similar to the chapter of a cathedral.

The Colegiada de Guimarães, as it became known, enjoyed significant autonomy and only recognized the authority of the Holy See in Rome and the King Portugal. Since it did not recognize the authority of Braga’s Archbishop, this resulted in a series of conflicts and a rivalry between the two religious institutions that lasted until the 19th century.

Nevertheless, the Colegiada de Guimarães enjoyed the protection of kings, who granted it significant donations. As such, the Colegiada built up an impressive real estate portfolio in and around Guimarães.

Today, there is not much left of the original building. The Colegiada, as we see it today, shows some reconstruction work and additions from different periods. If you enjoy art history or architecture, you will be amazed to find elements of Gothic reconstruction, a Manueline bell tower, and neoclassical features in the main and secondary chapels.

At a short distance from the entrance of the Igreja da Nossa Senhora da Oliveira is the Padrão do Salado, a Gothic-styled monument. This stunning construction celebrates the Portuguese victory against the Moors in 1340, known as the Battle of Salado. At the time, King D. Afonso XI of Castile requested the support of the Portuguese King, D. Afonso IV.

The Padrão do Salado is a Gothic porch with four ogival arches. Underneath the Padrão is a Norman cross gifted by Pero Esteves, a Guimarães businessman. The limestone cross features Christ on one side and the Virgin on the other. At the base are images of four religious figures: St. Vincent, St. Philip, St. Torcato, and the Guardian Angel.

7. Praça de São Tiago

Next to Largo da Oliveira, Igreja da Nossa Senhora da Oliveira, and Padrão do Salado, you will find the charming Praça de São Tiago. It is one of the oldest squares in Guimarães, referred to in several historical documents.

Around the square, are traditional stone houses with rehabilitated façades, that respect the materials and designs used in the 17th and 18th centuries. These small buildings retain their traditional wooden balconies decorated with colorful flower pots.

According to the local legend, the apostle São Tiago brought an image of the Virgin Mary, which he placed inside a small pagan temple in a town square. This square became known as Praça de São Tiago.

The Franks, who came to the Portuguese kingdom with Count D. Henrique, King D. Afonso Henriques’s father, were some of the first to settle here. This is why you will find the following Latin inscription on the square floor: “Ad vos homines qui venistis populare in Vimaranes et ad illos qui ibi habitare volerint.” This sentence was extracted from the Charter Count D. Henrique granted to Guimarães in 1096. In English, it means: “To you men who came to populate Guimarães and to those who want to live here.”

At Praça de São Tiago, you will also find the demarcated site of a chapel dedicated to the apostle São Tiago. It is one of the many stops on the pilgrimage route of Camino de Santiago de Compostela. Unfortunately, the chapel was demolished in the 19th century.

If you visit Guimarães during the summer, you will find Praça de São Tiago’s outdoor terraces filled with locals and visitors having a drink in the late afternoon. In the evening, the square comes alive as the restaurants and bars open.

This is one of the oldest streets in Guimarães and perhaps the most well-known. Constructed in the 10th century, Santa Maria Street connected the “Vila do Castelo” (the castle settlement) to “Vila do Mosteiro” (the monastery village). During the Middle Ages, nobles and clergy lived on this street.

Along Santa Maria Street, you will find traditional northern houses built with local granite. All the buildings here have been rehabilitated, and the street is now for pedestrians only. It is the perfect place to admire the incredible architectural features of Guimarães’s medieval buildings, including the Convento de Santa Clara, Casa do Arco, Casa dos Peixotos, and the Gothic House of Valadares.

Built in the 16th century, Convento de Santa Clara was one of the richest convents in Guimarães. Today, it holds the Guimarães City Council. The Baroque façade holds a sculpture of Santa Clara, and inside there is a two-story cloister. At the time, the convent was famous for the mouth-watering Tortas de Guimarães the nuns made and sold. Nowadays, only a handful of people in Guimarães know how to make this traditional local sweet. It is one of the city’s best-kept secrets.

The Casa do Arco is one of the most photographed buildings in Guimarães. Built in the late 15th century, it was home to many noblemen and it hosted kings D. Manuel I, in 1502, and King D. Miguel in the 19th century.

The Casa dos Peixotos is a residential building from the 13th century that was refurbished over the centuries. Here, you can admire the incredible stonework façade topped by merlons with cannon gargoyles. The main façade shows broken arch bays and heraldic elements.

The Gothic House of Valadares is one of the oldest in Guimarães. The coat of arms on the façade reveals the building used to belong to a rich and powerful family.

Outside the ancient city walls is the Largo do Toural. In the 17th century, cattle fairs and bullfights took place here, next to Porta da Vila, the main gate to enter the old town of Guimarães. Roughly 100 years later, Queen D. Maria I ordered the demolition of a portion of the old city wall. In its place, she built Pombaline-style houses.

In 1791, the City Council used the land next to the wall to construct new buildings, and a public garden was built. In the 19th century, Largo do Toural was a place for social gatherings, which still stands today.

In 2012, when Guimarães was the European Capital of Culture, Largo do Toural gained a new dimension. The existing fountain was removed and replaced by a three-bowl Renaissance fountain.

An iconic feature in Largo do Toural is the central sidewalk, made of quartz and basalt, with a marble border. You can admire this incredible cobblestone work from a 60-meter-long balcony (196 feet), a work by Ana Jotta, a Portuguese artist.

Finally, you should also visit the Basília de São Pedro, an impressive 17th-century church, and the emblematic “Aqui nasceu Portugal” inscription on the ancient city wall.