In a region packed with historically important cities, few can claim to have played such a long and pivotal role as Puebla. Long before the Aztec, it was the Vatican of Mesoamerica, where priests and pilgrims flocked to the largest pyramid in the world. It was the site of one of the most brutal episodes of the Spanish conquest, and the heroic defense of its twin forts inspired the famous Cinco de Mayo celebrations. The result is a city strewn with spectacular monuments, just waiting for visitors to discover.
The Great Pyramid of Cholula
Today, Cholula is a suburb of Puebla’s urban area, but it was one of Mexico’s most important pre-Hispanic settlements for over a thousand years. Across the country (and neighboring Guatemala, Belize, and Honduras), many separate civilizations emerged alongside the famous Aztec and Maya, and together this melting pot of cultures is known as Mesoamerica. These peoples shared gods and traditions, which meant Cholula was able to take up the role of Mesoamerica’s preeminent religious center, similar to the Vatican in Europe.
After rising to prominence in the 3rd century BCE, it attracted pilgrims from hundreds of miles away, and peoples such as the Maya, the Zapotec, and the Mixtec had permanent quarters within the city. The pyramid that formed the center of Cholula’s religious life was expanded six times by the succession of peoples who controlled the city, and the last of these enlargements made it the biggest pyramid in the world. With a total volume of 4.45 million cubic meters it is almost twice the size of the Great Pyramid at Giza.
When Hernán Cortés arrived, on his way to conquer the Aztec capital in present-day Mexico City, he stopped at Cholula. When he claimed to have uncovered plans to ambush his conquistadors, he carried out one of the most brutal acts of the conquest. Within two hours, he and his Indigenous allies had killed 6,000 people. The pyramid was too big for the Spanish to destroy, so instead, they built a chapel on its summit and let grass grow over its steps. According to legend, lightning struck the chapel numerous times, leading some to suggest its destruction was an act of God. It was only when priests excavated a cache of Indigenous religious figures buried at the summit that the chapel, which still exists today, was able to survive the forces of nature.
Visitors can view the excavated steps of the lower pyramid and the ceremonial squares surrounding it. They can also enter part of the network of tunnels that were dug by archeologists. Inside, two striking pre-Hispanic murals are found, as well as the earlier iterations of the pyramid, which were buried by later expansions. It is also possible to climb to the summit and visit the chapel of the Virgen de los Remedios, while the snow-capped Popocatepetl volcano can be viewed from the terrace surrounding the chapel. Inside, the highlight is a venerated statue of the Virgin Mary, brought over from Spain by the conquistadors. In keeping with its original status, the chapel is still an important place of pilgrimage. If visitors are lucky, they might witness a procession of worshipers coming to pay homage to the Virgin.
Cholula’s Historic Center
Sprawling invitingly from the base of the great pyramid is Cholula’s colonial center. Cortés and his conquistadors immediately built a new town of grand mansions right on top of the pre-Hispanic city. This means that Cholula is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the Americas. Its streets are lined with beautiful, colorful townhouses dating back several centuries. Alongside the handsome Spanish architecture, there are many shaded parks and squares whose cobblestones are tread by artisan sellers.
Cortés wrote that, in addition to the pyramid, the city was home to around 430 temples, so he set about turning it into a center of Catholicism. Today, there are said to be 365 churches—one for every day of the year—and these make up some of Cholula’s best attractions. Many can be explored, and they are worth visiting due to both their elaborate architecture and the extensive collection of religious art displayed inside them. The church of Santa Maria Tonantzintla is particularly interesting as Indigenous artists were allowed to decorate its interior. Every inch of its walls and ceiling are decorated with carvings, and hidden among the angels and saints are subtle representations of Mesoamerican gods, which escaped the notice of the Christian priests. Syncretic art such as this was a way for Mexico’s indigenous peoples to resist Spanish colonialism.
Perhaps the largest Christian building is the convent of San Gabriel Arcángel, which dominates the skyline and can be seen from the top of the pyramid. Dating to 1528, it was built immediately after the conquest on the site of a temple to Quetzalcoatl—the feathered serpent god. The sprawling complex contains architectural elements drawn from both Gothic and Plateresque styles, as well as several chapels. While it is still a working monastery, those who want to see one of the grandest pieces of early colonial construction in Mexico are allowed to visit and can also attend a mass.
Just one block from the central square is the Cosme del Razo Municipal Market. This is the largest market in Cholula, and people have been selling their produce in and around this site since before the Spanish arrived. A walk through the cavernous building offers a glimpse of living history and a scene that wouldn’t look significantly different to a visitor several centuries ago. Alongside overflowing sacks of dried chili and avocados, visitors can be tempted by the steaming pots of local stews. These are served with tortillas made to order on stone griddles, having already undergone the process of nixtamalization developed by ancient Mesoamericans.
The Forts of Loreto and Guadalupe
Few Mexican cities can claim to have played as pivotal a role in post-conquest history as Puebla, even after the Spanish had brought an end to the Mesoamerican era. It was the gateway to Mexico City, through which Cortés entered the Aztec heartland. Once he had established a foothold in the region, Puebla became an economic and cultural center. This was due to its strategic location, halfway between Mexico City and the port of Veracruz, which linked his new conquests to Spain. Immigrants and luxury goods passed through on their way into Mexico, while silver traveled in the other direction as it was taken to Europe.
Such an important place needed defending, and so two forts were built at the top of the Guadalupe and Loreto hills on the edge of Puebla’s city center. Originally, these were chapels, but over the years they were fortified and expanded so that they could serve a military purpose. Their worth was proven in 1862 when a newly independent Mexico found itself once again chasing off European invaders. In response to unpaid debts, the armies of Britain, Spain, and France massed off Veracruz’s coast, threatening to invade. Although the British and Spanish relented, the French were determined to march on Mexico City but realized they would have to take Puebla’s forts before they could get there. Despite being heavily outnumbered and facing one of the most well-equipped armies in the world, the Mexican forces managed to repel the French as they tried to climb the hill.
The defense was led by the recently resigned President Santa Anna, while future dictator Porfirio Díaz also fought in the battle. The French were repelled on the fifth of May, and it is this that the famous Cinco de Mayo celebrations commemorate. In the end, the defense was in vain. A year later, the French returned to take the capital and crown a member of the Austrian nobility as emperor of Mexico. This bizarre period of the country’s history was short-lived, however, and independence fighters overthrew him after just a few years.
Both forts have been turned into museums, where visitors can learn about the battle and view weaponry used during the conflict. The entirety of the two hills has been turned into a park, and, alongside the forts themselves, tourists can visit the Museum of Evolution, the Planetarium, and an anthropology museum—a sister institution to the famous museum in Mexico City. The viewpoint close to Loreto provides striking views of the twin Popocatépetl and Iztaccihuatl volcanoes, as well as Puebla’s colonial center.
Puebla’s Historic Center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site
Puebla’s center was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987 in recognition of its historical importance and the ornate beauty of its buildings. It is one of the best-preserved sites in the country, with a range of architectural styles spanning the early colonial period to the later baroque style that took Latin America by storm. Simply walking its streets provides a feast for the history lover’s eyes, but there are also many specific buildings that are worth visiting.
Puebla’s cathedral is a baroque masterpiece 300 years in the making. When it was finally completed, its towers were among the tallest in Latin America, and its interior was painted by some of the most prominent artists from Mexico, Spain, and Italy. The Rosary Chapel within the nearby Temple of Santo Domingo is another piece of architecture that needs to be seen to be believed. Hardly an inch of it is not covered in ornately worked gold, creating a blindingly elaborate effect that dazzles those who visit. In 2015, a network of tunnels spanning over 10 km (6 miles) was discovered, linking the historic center to the Loreto fort. Their purpose is not completely clear, and alongside weaponry, which would suggest military use, toys, and kitchen utensils were found within them.
The city also possesses a unique local culture, distinct from neighboring parts of Mexico. Many features that make Puebla distinct have their roots in centuries-old traditions. Perhaps the most famous of these are the Talavera tiles that adorn many of its churches and mansions. These beautiful artworks developed soon after Cortés arrived, when artisans from Spain settled in Puebla, bringing their ceramic skills with them. When the region’s Indigenous peoples learned how to replicate this work, they incorporated their own traditional patterns, and a unique fusion emerged. Particularly impressive examples of buildings clad in Talavera include the Biblioteca Palafoxiana and the Uriarte Talavera, where the tiles are still made today.
Those engaged in the ceramics industry also started producing the enormous clay cazuela pots for which the city is famous. Today, visitors can sample another piece of Puebla’s living history by trying the ancient mole poblano sauce, which is still made and served in these pots at stalls across the city.
